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Sports Jackets and Blazers
There is nothing more versatile and practical than a sport jacket or blazer. Although these two terms are often used to describe the same item of clothing, the two jackets are quiet different. Blazers and sport jackets are not designed with the necessity to wear them with matching trousers, but the fabric and the buttons will define whether a jacket is a blazer or a sports jacket (or sports coat as it is sometimes called).
The difference between a blazer and a sport jacket is most easily determined by the fabric that is used to make the jacket. A blazer is usually made with a fabric in one solid color. The most common color for blazers is navy and black. The exception to this rule is the classic striped British boating blazer and striped blazers worn by private schools and cricket clubs. Blazers feature metal buttons made from brass or silver and these blazer buttons usually feature the crest or the symbol of a school, army regiment, navy fleet, or private club.
A sport jacket, on the other hand is far less formal. Sport jackets are made with textured fabrics (like Harris Tweed) as well as smooth finished fabrics. Sport jackets are usually made with check patterns, hounds-tooth, herringbone, and many other designs. Dormeuil, for example, make over 300 different designs, just for sport jackets.
Sport jackets have a long and proud history since being introduced into gentlemen’s wardrobes in the middle of the 19th century. From hunting to golfing, the sport jacket became a staple item for gentlemen who spent significant time outdoors. Many of the fabrics developed for these sport jackets were woven with 4 ply yarn to create “thorn proof“ fabric that could be worn in the toughest countryside. Dormeuil’s Sportex and Dormysport are examples of this traditional fabric. The versatility of these fabrics allows a gentleman to dress for the country, but also look smart in the city. Worn with jeans, chords, cavalry twill pants, or chinos, a sport jacket is a must have item.
Another name often given to blazers and sport jackets is the “Odd jacket.” The odd jacket gets it’s name from being a stand alone clothing item with no matching trousers. Hence, an odd jacket. Odd jackets are often finished with contrast button holes, elbow patches, stitched in belt backs, and contrast chord or felt under the collar (to name a few design details). Patch pockets, flap pockets, and ticket pockets can all be added. A blazer or sport coat can also be finished with a peak lapel or a notch lapel.
The history of the sport jacket evolved in the 1950’s when academics and businessmen alike started looking for more casual attire for work wear. Golf and hunting still required the heavy 13 to 14 ounce fabrics, but urban environments required lighter fabrics in checks, plaids, stripes, and textures. This evolved even further in the 1970’s when plaids began to feature strongly in fashion circles. The plaid sport jacket morphed into bright check designed suits as worn by the character Herb Tarlek from WKRP in Cincinnati. This very accented fashion trend didn’t last too long, but the sport jacket lived on a prospered. Today, many designers use traditional sport jacket fabric to show off their new garment patterns and silhouettes. Conversely, designers also use a myriad newly designed sport jacket fabric to accent a favored classic jacket pattern.
As we’ve mentioned, a custom made blazer and/or sport jacket is a staple in every man’s wardrobe. A blazer is the perfect solution for a casual Friday at the office, a surprise brunch at a nice eatery on Sunday, or a quick trip out of town.
If you’re in doubt, start with a navy blazer and you can’t go wrong. Navy colored blazers with brass buttons have been around for over a hundred years. Made in a heavier fabric, this is perfect for winter and made with a lighter fabric your blazer is perfect for summer. The nautical influence projected by a blazer makes this jacket perfect for a business trip to the coast or a holiday trip to a beach retreat. The word blazer actually came about when sport jackets in bright colors were described as blazing with color.
A blazer, unlike a sport jacket, can be worn to business meetings at the most formal and senior level. Given that the same jacket can be worn with jeans on the weekend, what more could you want from a single piece of clothing? Some people prefer to wear club blazers with club patches on the breast pocket, but these should only be worn at events of the said club. Single button blazers are by far more contemporary and double breasted blazers should never be worn wit jeans as they are far more formal than single breasted blazers. You can also choose to get twin vents at the back (British) or a classic center vent – or no vent at all (a Continental jacket).
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Sports Jackets and Blazers
